Mountains to Mangroves

I’m not, like, a hot springs expert or anything. But I can count at least eight times that I’ve stayed a night in Jackson. No, not the one in Wyoming. Not the one Cash and Carter went to once the pepper sprout marriage cooled. It’s a hot springs. It’s a town. In Montana.

Anyway. This past weekend was a rainy one here in SW MT. It’s green and wonderful. It’s muddy.

It’s, just didn’t feel like a camping this weekend, due to to the 1-inch plus expected precip. (That’s hip weather people talk BTW). So, the family decided to book a night at our favorite dipping spot: Jackson Hot Springs Lodge.

Love this place for many reasons, which I’ll get to. The drive to the springs is part of the fun, so here’s a quick play-by-play.

From Ennis, the route takes us thru Virginia and Nevada ghost towns. In the summer this area is hopping with visitors. Winter, not so much. Then it’s on thru the small towns of Alder, Sheridan and Twin Bridges. Cross over the Beaverhead River, pass the abandoned Montana State Orphanage.

SCREECH. I have to tell y’all (you’s guys if you prefer) about this super creepy-yet-intrigue-inciting orphanage. Montana Public Radio did a succinct and super interesting story in 2023 on it: https://www.mtpr.org/montana-news/2023-09-27/whats-the-story-behind-montanas-old-state-orphanage. Check it out.

Basically, the place was opened along a picturesque stretch of the Beaverhead in the late 1800’s. Before Foster Care. In reality, most of the kids that ended up there weren’t orphans in the literal sense. These were the kids of the Great Depression whose families couldn’t support them. At one point 300 kids concurrently called the complex – complete with a gymnasium and pool – home. In all, nearly 6,000 kids resided at the Montana Children’s Center until its closure in the 70’s.

Alright. Back on the Road. Our next stop most often includes the Patagonia Outlet in Dillon. (Or, perhaps, Mickey D’s… ehhh?) This time around my kid scored the most – ski bibs, UV hoody, swim trunks. I got a super-steezy flat brim.

There’s a cool article explaining why the owner of Patagonia chose lil-ole Dillon as one of its few outlet locales: https://www.fastcompany.com/91029252/patagonia-outlet-store-dillon-montana-location-gamble-paid-off-brand.

Pockets lighter, we were on the road again. We did not stop this time, but along the way I highly recommend a turn into Bannack State Park. This is a well-preserved mining boom town that was once Montana’s first territorial capitol. If you go, check out the old cemetery on the left. Definitely watch for rattlesnakes in warm weather.

From there it’s just a short cruise to Jackson. Keep your eyes peeled for another highlight unique to the high-altitude Big Hole Valley: beaverslide hay stacker. These wooden frames originated in the valley in the 1900s. They’d stack 30-foot piles of hay that could supply a ranch for several years at a time, no baling needed.

Here we go. We’ve made it to Jackson, MT: Pop: 30-ish, Elev: 6,400 ft.

LOVES:
For me, JHS’ two-story lodge, leading to the springs, is a show stopper. The people you meet there are a blend of ranchers, ski bums and hot spring hoppers.
There’s a decent restaurant where we’ve always over-ordered dinner. (They don’t skimp on the cheese curds…) There may have been over-ordering at the bar on some occasions as well.
The springs themselves consist of one big concrete pool. It’s likely seen better days but then so haven’t we all. In the frigin’ frigid and short winter days its a steamy reprieve. In the less busy summertime, it’s a perfect spot when the weather isn’t so hot.
The springs’ website has accurate photos of the rooms which include cabins, larger options and more basic accommodations.

BEEFS:
Some people like it hot. I get that. It’s a hot spring. But. The past few of my visits the water has been, like, hot hot. Everyone in the pool says so. Believe me. Or don’t. In the morn of our stay my husband spoke with an employee re: the temps. It was discovered that the pool temp hadn’t been properly adjusted overnight and was clocking at a whopping 108 degrees. Warm Springs Creek, which fills the pool, has been over 120 degrees. Woof!
Then there are the cabins/rooms. Let’s just say the digs, which run around $200 per night, are Montana rustic. You can hear your neighbors’ conversations and, in theory, could join in thru the wall.

Long story short, JHS is a gem in the middle of nowhere.. err… Montana’s great expanses. The drive there alone is worth the time., even if you can’t quite handle that frog in a slow boiling pot feeling for more than a few minutes. Seriously tho…